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From Goa - Nov 2001 PDF Print E-mail
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Thursday, 24 April 2008 13:43
Dear Friends:

Were I a Japanese nobleman at the Heian court, I might perhaps
wonder, with a sigh, whether, perhaps, in my previous life I have
lived in this climate. How else can I account for this powerful
feeling of having at last arrived home? This feeling of relief? The
merciless heat, the stifling humidity, the coconut trees swaying in
the gentle breeze from the sea, the orange haze in which the world is
dunked at sunset, thee gold in which it bathes at dawn, the banana
tree outside my bathroom window, the life lived in open houses, whose
doors and windows are never shut, on broad verandahs, under shady
roofs, in large, leafy gardens behind high laterite walls, the five
foot snakes slithering past my doorstep, the bats flying in at night
through the tall windows and circling under my 25 foot ceiling, the
falling asleep in colorful hammocks on drowsy afternoons under
mosquito nets and slowly turning ceiling fans, the piglets
energetically wagging their tails in the streets, the buffalos
wallowing in the rice fields – all of this is so homey, so familiar,
so dear. I have been made for this life and this climate, or perhaps
it has been made for me. It is only an accident of fate which threw
my soul in a body of a temperate climate.

We have taken a small bungalow in a large old Portuguese compound,
behind such a wall, full of such shade, with a deep, lusciously cool
swimming pool. And that has kept us here and will keep us here till
end of November. We won't settle here, we rather think. Goa is,
despite its status as a tourist destination, too remote: telephones
don't work, power is unreliable, banks are user unfriendly, getting
anything done is a chore; its hard to get certain products routinely
available in other cities of India, worst of all, no one here carries
The Economist; and their restaurants are appalling – no one here
seems to know how to fix a decent dahl makhani or malai kofta or even
a simple tandoor dish… But for a month, this place is fine. And
the sea, only 400 m away, whose surf lulls us to sleep at night, will
keep us busy until we hit the road again.

At end of November we will up sticks and head to Madras (known to
some as Chennai these days), by way of some sites in Karnataka
(Badami, Hampi, Mysore). We will be in Chennai Dec 14, 2001 –
January 4, 2002, every night attending Carnatic music concerts, and
the rest of the time sheltering in an a/c room of Hotel New Woodlands
from the joys of a tropical big city…
Last Updated ( Friday, 25 April 2008 12:31 )